Metalhead Egg Sucking Minnow

Nymphs: Step-by-step fly tying instructions. 

Mike Schmidt's Metalhead Egg Sucking Minnow - Fly tying instructions

Metalhead Egg Sucking Minnow created by Mike Schmidt, Anglers Choice Flies.

Fly tying materials

Thread: UTC140, red. 
Hook: Daiichi 2457 or 2487, size 6.
Bead: Nymph-Head Heavy Metal tungsten fly tying bead, Shrimp Pink.
Body 1: Poly pro yarn, red.
Body 2: Senyo Laser Dub, white.
Body 3: SLF Flash Blend, tan.
Body 4: Senyo Laser Dub, dark tan.
Eyes: Sybai 3D epoxy eye.
Epoxy: Clear Cure Goo Thick.

Fly tying instructions

Step 1

With your Daiichi 2457 size 6 in the vise. Slide a Nymph-Head Heavy Metal tungsten bead to the eye then create a thread dam with your red 140 denier thread to hold it in place.

Step 2

Separate out a single strand of poly pro yarn and tie it in behind the eye. I usually double it back over itself to provide a stable base for the fly. Cut it to length at the bend of the hook.

Step 3

Prepare a chunk of White Senyo Laser Dub by pulling and folding fibers between your fingers, similar to how you would blend dubbing. Doing so makes the fibers lay out together and set them at approximately the same length. Tie in the Laser Dub at the tie in poinjust behind the bead and resulting in it hanging off the back of the hook.

Step 4

Get a small chunk of SLF Flash Blend separated out and tie it in off the back of the hook. This material should extend about a hook length past the Laser dub as it will supply a little flash and wiggle at the back of the pattern.

Step 5

Prepare a chunk of Dark Tan Senyo Laser Dub and tie above the SLF at top to the fly.

Step 6

Using Crazy Glue Gel, tack in place Sybai 3D Epoxy eyes in an appropriate color on either side. The thread base from the tie in point serves as the anchor point for the eyes, and is covered by the eyes.

Step 7

Finish the fly by filling the gap on top and bottom of the eyes using Clear Cure Goo Thick epoxy. I usually put it in place between the eyes and then use a dubbin needle to shape it a bit before curing with the UV light. Be sure to pull a little up over the front edge of the eyes ensuring the eyes will not pop off.